Day One

The first morning was average, about waist to chest high with bigger sets. Fortunately the waves here still barrel at that size, and yes, we got plenty. After my first tube I let out a big "yew!!!!!", it finally set in that this was going to be my way of life for the next three months. I couldnt believe how perfectly round and hollow these little waves were, it was perfect( especially coming from florida). After about twenty barrels and three hours in the sun it was time for some breakfast to refuel. After that we headed back out for round two. The wind had picked up and the tide had dropped, it looked like Florida, we were bummed. With nothing else to do we paddeled out, to our surprise it was really fun. The way the wave wedged up and unloaded on the sandbar reminded me of a wave back home, Spanish House. It was quick and short with an air section at the end on every wave. Later that day some local groms took us fishing. The look on their faces when we let them use are rods was priceless. They were so happy and excited just to cast the line, it makes you realize whats really important in life, to see how stoked they were for something that we take for granted. At the end of the day we wrapped it up with a nice fish dinner and prepared for the next mornings barrels.